Sometimes simple things done well work.

And if that's the mantra of maitre d' Ben Brock at The Ruapehu, a new pop-up eatery out in Tauranga's burbs, then it is working. And working well.

Just two options for starters, mains and desert and they don't taint good eating with talk of money. No prices on the bill of fare at The Rupehau ….you pay what you think your meal was worth when you leave.

It's not a business model that would guarantee the long-term success of a restaurant – but it'll get a big bunch of kids from Greerton's Greenpark School to the beach for an end of year treat.

The restaurant is basically a very brave fundraiser – a few teachers and a whole crowd of enthusiastic Year 5s turning out an a la carte lunch for parents, friends and in this case, the snooping media.

There are other novelty aspects – the restaurant only does lunch. Probably because the staff will have homework and have to be in bed by the time older evening diners are headed into town.

And there's just one sitting each day – at 12.30pm for 90 minutes – because business is squeezed in between English and math or science and technology.

You are met in the school foyer by 9-year-old Indigo – 'Hullo, I am Indigo. Are you here for The Ruapehu?” That smile was designed for front of house – all smiles and carefully rehearsed lines. 'Follow me and I will introduce you to your servers.” Not waiters, waitresses but servers.

Indigo leads us past the sick bay – we're sideswiped by a young rooster with a hacking cough. You really need to get that seen to mate. All the dynamics of a school at work – warts and all.

And here are the servers – Arav, a 9-year-old with Bollywood good looks and charm and Jack, a 10-year-old who is all focus and freckles. And who sings very well in the school choir apparently.

'Hullo,” says Indigo. 'I mean hullo again.” Giggles. 'Arav and Jack will take you to your table.”

It's interesting because the reporter and his charming young hanger-on agree this dining experience is more about the people and the processes. It's not so much about the creamy consistency, the rich orange red colour and delightfully uncomplicated taste sensation of the ‘country pumpkin soup. It's more about nine and 10 year olds getting the soup to the table without spilling it ….over you, over themselves.

The kids, the teacher Ben Brock and the antics in the open kitchen are riveting entertainment.

'Don't touch your nose!” It's free advice from the maitre d' teacher to a youngster struggling with health and safety etiquette in a restaurant kitchen. Everyone is amused. No-one is offended.

There's the cheeky kitchen hand who starts playing peek-a-boo – pulling faces at our table. So my hanger-on pokes a tongue at cheeky. And it's a game ender. This is different sort of restaurant fun.

It's opening day for Greenpark School's restaurant ‘The Ruapehu'. Why Ruapehu? It's 250km away and out of sight. But it doesn't detract from the experience.

We settle for the ‘rustic vegetable curry with basmati' main over the lasagna. Good choice. That was the haunting ‘come eat me' aroma wafting across the carpark as we arrived. Server Arav ghosts in and out, delivering courses and cutlery. Jack, a man of deeds rather than words, is apparently 'just so damned cute” according to opinion at the table.

It had to happen. A hiccup. There's a delay on the 'decadent” chocolate brownie but Jack rescues the moment with a calmness beyond his years. 'Something's wrong,” explains Jack from behind the freckles. ”But it's coming.” It eventually arrives without further explanation, and the hanger-on makes it disappear. She's a baker, she knows her onions, knows a good from bad chocolate brownie. And this was good.

There was a flower on the brownie - dusted with confectioner's sugar. Nice touch and edible, but it's still there when the plate was removed. 'Didn't ya like the flower?” says the ever-so-slightly miffed server at the next table.

Quite right – what do you have to do to please some people?

So, to the bill. How much do you pay for a meal when you are expected only to pay what you think it's worth? The woman in front flicks the kids $50. There's a round of applause and high excitement. That puts the pressure on this diner but I wouldn't be upstaged by the women in front. Another round of applause.

That's $100 plus from just four diners. The Greenpark kids are well on the way to the beach at Christmas. And deservedly so. It was a memorable experience. And nothing like Fawlty Towers as Ben Brock is quick to remind me.

I was delighted to be wrong.