When I told friends I was taking a winter break from New Zealand to Uzbekistan, there was some scratching of heads, writes Coast & Country News journalist Steve Edwards.

Mainly because very few knew anything about this central Asian nation and even its position on the map.

It probably doesn’t help much to say Uzbekistan borders Turkmenistan, Afghanistan, Kazakhstan, Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan.

In the bigger global picture, it is a former Soviet state, below Russia, west of Turkey and east of China.

Why go? I saw a television documentary on the historic Silk Road – Venice to Beijing – and Uzbekistan looked the most interesting.

My 11-day solo tour took in the capital, Tashkent, along with other Silk Road stops including Khiva, Bukhara and Samarkand.

I went in August – the “low” season for tourists as most go in spring or autumn to avoid the summer heat.

It was mid-to-late 30s during my stay, so not oppressive, and I avoided jostling with hordes of tourists. It is particularly popular among Russians and an increasing number of western European, American and Asian visitors.

I found Uzbekistan to be very “tourist-friendly” – safe, clean and cheap.

Just three-and-a-half hours from Dubai (direct to Tashkent), travelling from New Zealand is relatively straightforward.

My flights, other transport, accommodation, guides and drivers were all pre-booked. A tour manager kept in constant contact to make sure things were going well.

The Silk Road adventure obviously included all the historic sites such as the fort in Khiva, Old Town in Bukhara, the splendors of Samarkand and the vibrant but relaxed atmosphere of Tashkent.

Yes, there were plenty of museums. mosques and mausoleums, but I was never bored as this was intermingled with bazaars, palaces and excursions into the country.

Apart from the heat, the first thing that hit me on arriving in Tashkent was the cost…. or lack of it.

Being reasonably well-travelled over the last 35-plus years, I can’t think of another developed country where you can get a top-class dinner for $10 NZ and a beer for $2 (sometimes less).

Restaurants seem to cater for all, offering options obviously including local dishes, plus full Italian, Chinese, American and Russian sections in their respective menus.

With a farming-based economy, you are guaranteed fresh meat, fruit and vegetables. The bread is to die for.

You know you are in a pretty good bit of countryside when every second farmer is selling watermelons at the gate.

I stayed in a good variety of accommodation, all clean and tidy, although English was a bit lacking in some.

This included a boutique hotel down a very salubrious side street off the main road to the airport in Tashkent. My neighbours were private kindergartens, obviously upmarket judging by the new BMWs and Audis that well-dressed mums were driving when dropping off their little cherubs.

The internal passenger railway is superb – fast, efficient and very comfy. Mind you I was in the VIP carriage for separate trips from Bukhara to Samarkand and Samarkand to Tashkent.  

Highlights of Tashkent were a busy bazaar – and a proper shave nearby – Independence Square and a ride on a very modern metro (underground railway) system.

A partnership with General Motors America sees vehicles made in Uzbekistan and I travelled in the popular Chevrolet Cobalt.

On my return to Tashkent at the end of the tour I travelled by car out of town to a skifield – obviously not up and running in summer – complete with a gondola which takes you more than 2km and 2290m up the mountains.

Amirsoy Mountain Resort only opened in 2019 and the facilities appear to be top class. At $30 for a day pass, it could be the “next big thing” for those wanting an inexpensive ski holiday.

On the way out to the mountains, it was interesting to see construction of New Tashkent on the outskirts of the city.

State-of-the-art stadia, plus an athletes’ village and associated hotels, are being bult for next year’s Asian Games.

Closer to home, Tashkent’s wonderful dining and shopping pedestrian-only boulevard is named Broadway – probably not after my hometown’s (Matamata) main street.

Uzbekistan is more than 90 per cent Muslim, but there does not seem to be any related restrictions for locals and visitors.

There obviously needs to be a degree of respect regarding standard of dress when visiting mosques, but light garments are usually provided at the respective sites.

The Soviet influence remains in some of the buildings alone, as independence was gained in 1991.

As a solo traveller, albeit outside the “high” season, I felt safe in Uzbekistan.

In busy months, I understand Tourist Police are on patrol in popular spots, but more in an advisory role than anything else.

FACT BOX

Uzbekistan

History: 1000 BC

Population: 35 million

Capital: Tashkent (2.6 million)

Spoken Language: Uzbek

Currency: Uzbekistani Som ($1 NZ = 7800 UZS)

• The writer travelled at his own expense