We flew out of a very wet, cold NZ, arriving at 1.15am 14 August into Faleolo Airport, Upola, Western Samoa.

What a contrast from the hustle of work to the beautiful sound of the Island Band playing to welcome us.
The last bag on the carousel was a black sports bag – but not ‘our' black sports bag. Our first ever experience of lost luggage – with paperwork completed we headed off in the last taxi to Apia Marina, a good 30 mins away. Eventually onto ‘Vara' and greeted by our good friends Bruce & Elaine Goodwin at 3.20 a.m.
Time changes meant we had yesterday all over again, giving us opportunity to walk the streets of Apia, enjoy the markets and island culture and make visits to the Air NZ office, and by mid afternoon our bag had been returned – one very relieved and happy Roger!

Adventure begins
During our 2 days in Apia, we visited Papasaea Rocks (know as Sliding Rocks), we all enjoyed a swim but Rog was the only one brave enough to take a slide. We acquainted ourselves several times with Aggie Gray's Hotel and enjoyed a beautiful evening meal there. We also visited Robert Louis Stevenson's home. The evening of 15th we raised the anchor and our sailing adventure starts.
We sailed west overnight to Asau Harbour, Savii Island. Each of us did a 2 hour watch, tonight I'm on from 2 – 4 am. I was a little nervous at first as I didn't feel I'd be able to get the trim right if the wind changed but all went very well and in the end I was under main sail only, doing 7.2 knots for a while. Our aim was to average 5 – 6 knots so we'd arrive through the very narrow reef entrance at dawn – which we did. Smoke hung low and still over the entire village as families prepared their after church lunch in their umus (hangi). 24 hours here gave us time for swimming and walking ashore where we chatted with the locals.

Small repairs
The 17th next stop Wallis Island – a dot 208 nm west - we're off and just out through the reef it's 7.15 am main up when Bruce notices some stitching has let go. Time for some sewing and that I can do - I perched on the cabin top and about 40 mins later Bruce & I were admiring our handiwork. We lost sight of land after about 30 miles and we were truly blue water sailing.
The spinnaker got an airing that day and despite very pleasant conditions I was feeling a bit queasy and reluctant to go below. I did attempt dinner but after a trip to the bathroom and the motion below dinner made a quick re-visit and was delivered to Neptune!
I stood first watch 7-9 after which I was happy to get my head down and sleep. Next watch 3-5 am – not alone this time – the bucket was my companion! We sight land about 1pm on 18th and 3 hrs later Wallis Island had grown and was much larger than we expected. The entrance through the very distinct reef was clearly marked, but finding an anchorage when depth goes from 45m to 2-3m in a blink was a challenge. Gahi Bay was perfect, semi protected, at 15m with no nasties – and by 5 pm we were all in for a swim. Sunset is 5.39 pm and this is not a place to arrive in the dark! Temperature in the cabin is 29 – 33 degrees. Now that we're at anchor again I'm feeling fine and I took a turn at rustling up some dinner after we've had ‘happy hour'.
Wallis Island is a French Dependency with a population of 9000. We were up bright and early off to explore. A lovely lady, Noelini, ashore said she would watch the dinghy, although her English was limited we were able to establish that there were no buses, no taxis, here you hitch hike! Off we set walking and a few kilometres later I dashed across the road, flagged down a 7 seater, and using my best schoolgirl French got us a ride. It was about 10 km to The Gendarmie (the Police Station) where we officially entered and exited Wallis and got the important stamps in our passports.

And the rains came
We experienced a tropical downpour and while we sheltered Bruce headed off to clear Customs for Vara.
On Wallis everyone has a vehicle and facilities are spread all over the Island. Walking between Gendarmie, Customs, Bank & P.O. was impossible as nothing is within cooee of the other. We gave up on this and instead ventured into Hotel Lomipeau where thankfully they accepted visa. The view from the Hotel out to the small island over the lagoon with its various shades of aqua, golden sand and waves breaking on the outer reef - magical. With no idea of the exchange rate we figured our lunch of 3 beers, 4 salads and a plate of chips (very finely sliced breadfruit) for a total of 7,350 Fr was all part of the adventure! As we we're contemplating our hitch back to Gahi Bay we meet a couple of Aussie guys and we're offered a ride back on their tender. The skipper and crew are delivering the 100ft Bruce Farr Superyacht Rapture to Noumea and have anchored beside Vara – perfect timing and a taste of how the other half live.

Fiji bound
Early next morning 21st (back to NZ time) we were on our way again. Next stop Savu Savu, Vanua Levu, Fiji 356 nm South West. About an hour from Wallis we caught a good size Mahi Mahi that was welcomed aboard by all. However, by the end of the day, food and I were again no longer friends.
During the day we didn't keep strict watch periods, just took turns being on deck, keeping an eye around. We only saw two fishing boats during the whole trip but as we got closer to land again it was reefs we were concentrating on avoiding. We had fair weather all the way, but as we passed through Somosomo Channel, where the wind funnels between two larger islands and there is a strong current, we actually got a good stiff breeze right on the nose. It was through here that we experienced a hiccup – the engine just stopped.
Rog took the helm and he and I sailed Vara while Bruce set to stripping the motor, replacing the filter, bleeding etc and after about an hour crouched in the engine area in a very hot sticky cabin and a mouthful of diesel we were instructed to press the start button and she kicked back into life.
Dusk was upon us and although no one voiced any concern I don't think there was anyone on board that wanted to rely on sails alone while among the reefs. With only about 40m to go, we pressed on in a good breeze for the rest of the night, dropping sail and motoring at midnight we slowed to enter Savu Savu Harbour. Around 12.45 am right in the entrance of Savu Savu inlet Bruce called to Roger 'Anchor down quick” and as the chain rattled - the motor died again, we had arrived!
Later that day 24th we go ashore and were officially removed from Vara's crew list. Our short winter escape was almost over – total sailing distance 626 nm – it had been a dream trip.
By Rosemary Clark